We made it!
St Cuthbert’s way is 62 miles long, our final journey was 84 miles, not because we got lost but because we had to go off trail for lodging and we stopped along the way to see Abbeys, Castles, and landmarks of note.
But today, today we arrived on the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. We could see the Holy Island starting yesterday afternoon when we were 10 miles off, it is gorgeous and the castle and Abbey stand out and are highly visible. Our final 10 miles were joyfully downhill or flat!
The way of St Cuthbert begins in Melrose, Scotland where St Cuthbert grew up and was taught by monks from Iona who lived in the Melrose Abbey. The path follows along the different towns in and amongst the hills and valleys of the Scottish countryside and northeastern English country side. We learned St Cuthbert’s way is not always the shortest way to get to the next town but it was always beautiful to follow and see what lay just beyond the next ridge (there was always another ridge!)
Things we learned:
- There is always going to be a hill (or “ascent” as our book called it) in the first 2 miles and it will get your heart going.
- There is always going to be a hill in the last 2 miles because you are tired and would rather it be flat
- Cuthbert meandered around to get to the sea. His way is not the shortest route.
- We went 6 days without riding in a car, watching TV, or talking on the phone and it was delightful.
- We had 6 days of SUNSHINE! (One day threatened rain but cleared up and I think most people got sunburned!)
- Hiking poles are THE BEST (thanks Kermit for ours!)
- Each person you encountered was a new adventure to learn about.
- Afternoon tea makes the world a better place
This time of year is before the heavy rains, our trails were not overgrown or very muddy. We also were in and amongst 3 different groups. Hikers can hike in several ways, many companies will book your stay and take care of moving your luggage from one place to another. OR you can coordinate your own trip. We were amongst three other groups who all ended today at the Holy Island. Each of us had different companies who planned out our trip and one group did their own logistics. While we never started hiking out together on each day, we would find each other along the way. The group of 4 women hiking together, the group of three men hiking together, a couple and then Rob and me. Each day we would find each other on trail or at the end of trail. (Each town only had so many bed and breakfasts and restaurants.) While we didn’t learn everyone’s names it was fun to hear each other’s stories, give thanks for the small triumphs and be thankful all at the same time for each little blessing.
Today Rob and I saw each and every person we traveled with on the road. From what i understand this time of year is not peak season, so there were times where we heard no other humans, just birds or silence—- one foot after another. It was beautiful to see the topography change, the climate change, the flora change and to be able to have the opportunity to do such a hike.
Tomorrow we leave the Holy Island and continue a bit more of St Cuthbert- we will see him once more in Durham, where his remains were taken for safe keeping during the 11century invasions and have remained there ever since!
